Food On a Maryland Plantation: Frederick Douglass Speaks

 

 

Wye House Plantation, the Great House Farm spoken of by Frederick Douglass, Talbot County, Maryland, Eastern Shore

Wye House Plantation, the Great House Farm spoken of by Frederick Douglass, Talbot County, Maryland, Eastern Shore

 

From The Life and Times of Frederick Douglass, 1889

On his Birth and his Grandmother’s Gifts:

 Few at that time knew anything of the months of the year or of the days of the month. They measured the ages of their children by spring-time, winter-time, harvest-time, planting-time, and the like. Masters allowed no questions concerning their ages to be put to them by slaves. Such questions were regarded by the masters as evidence of an impudent curiosity. From certain events, however, the dates of which I have since learned, I suppose myself to have been born in February, 1817.

Herring, Pork and Corn

Herring, Pork and Corn

        My first experience of life, as I now remember it, and I remember it but hazily, began in the family of my grandmother and grandfather, Betsey and Isaac Bailey. They were considered old settlers in the neighborhood, and from certain circumstances I infer that my grandmother, especially, was held in high esteem, far higher than was the lot of most colored persons in that region. She was a good nurse, and a capital hand at making nets used for catching shad and herring, and was, withal, somewhat famous as a fisherwoman. I have known her to be in the water waist deep, for hours, seine-hauling. She was a gardener as well as a fisherwoman, and remarkable for her success in keeping her seedling sweet potatoes through the months of winter, and easily got the reputation of being born to “good luck.” In planting-time Grandmother Betsey was sent for in all directions, simply to place the seedling potatoes in the hills or drills; for superstition had it that her touch was needed to make them grow. This reputation was full of advantage to her and her grandchildren, for a good crop, after her planting for the neighbors, brought her a share of the harvest…. LIVING thus with my grandmother, whose kindness and love stood in place of my mother’s, it was some time before I knew myself to be a slave. I knew many other things before I knew that. Her little cabin had to me the attractions of a palace. Its fence-railed floor–which was equally floor and bedstead–up stairs, and its clay floor down stairs, its dirt and straw chimney, and windowless sides, and that most curious piece of workmanship, the ladder stairway, and the hole so strangely dug in front of the fire-place, beneath which grandmamma placed her sweet potatoes, to keep them from frost in winter, were full of interest to my childish observation. 

Maryland Heirloom Sweet Potatoes

Maryland Heirloom Sweet Potatoes

Notes:  Shad and herring, were two anadromous fish that migrated between salt and fresh water.  Spawning time in the spring was of major importance for enslaved communities in the Chesapeake and Tidewater as much of their protein came from various species of herring and shad.  Almost everything was grown in hills, and sweet potatoes–often white or yellow–were a key starch in the diet of enslaved Marylanders after corn.

On Being Separated from his Grandmother:

At last, while standing there, one of the children, who had been in the kitchen, ran up to me in a sort of roguish glee, exclaiming, “Fed, Fed, grandmamma gone!” I could not believe it. Yet, fearing the worst, I ran into the kitchen to see for myself, and lo! she was indeed gone, and was now far away, and “clean” out of sight. I need not tell all that happened now. Almost heart-broken at the discovery, I fell upon the ground and wept a boy’s bitter tears, refusing to be comforted. My brother gave me peaches and pears to quiet me, but I promptly threw them on the ground. I had never been deceived before and something of resentment mingled with my grief at parting with my grandmother.

Fighting Old Nep and a Mother’s Love:

Want of food was my chief trouble during my first summer here. Captain Anthony, instead of allowing a given quantity of food to each slave, committed the allowance for all to Aunt Katy, to be divided by her, after cooking, amongst us. The allowance consisted of coarse corn-meal, not very abundant, and which, by passing through Aunt Katy’s hands, became more slender still for some of us. I have often been so pinched with hunger as to dispute with old “Nep,” the dog, for the crumbs which fell from the kitchen table. Many times have I followed, with eager step, the waiting-girl when she shook the table-cloth, to get the crumbs and small bones flung out for the dogs and cats. It was a great thing to have the privilege of dipping a piece of bread into the water in which meat had been boiled, and the skin taken from the rusty bacon was a positive luxury. With this description of the domestic arrangements of my new home, I may here recount a circumstance which is deeply impressed on my memory, as affording a bright gleam of a slave-mother’s love, and the earnestness of a mother’s care. I had offended Aunt Katy. I do not remember in what way, for my offences were numerous in that quarter, greatly depending upon her moods as to their heinousness, and she had adopted her usual mode of punishing me: namely, making me go all day without food. For the first hour or two after dinner time, I succeeded pretty well in keeping up my spirits; but as the day wore away, I found it quite impossible to do so any longer. Sundown came, but no bread; and in its stead came the threat from Aunt Katy, with a scowl well-suited to its terrible import, that she would starve the life out of me. Brandishing her knife, she chopped off the heavy slices of bread for the other children, and put the loaf away, muttering all the while her savage designs upon myself. Against this disappointment, for I was expecting that her heart would relent at last, I made an extra effort to maintain my dignity, but when I saw the other children around me with satisfied faces, I could stand it no longer. I went out behind the kitchen wall and cried like a fine fellow. When wearied with this, I returned to the kitchen, sat by the fire and brooded over my hard lot. I was too hungry to sleep. While I sat in the corner, I caught sight of an ear of Indian corn upon an upper shelf. I watched my chance and got it; and shelling off a few grains, I put it back again. These grains I quickly put into the hot ashes to roast. I did this at the risk of getting a brutal thumping, for Aunt Katy could beat as well as starve me. My corn was not long in roasting, and I eagerly pulled it from the ashes, and placed it upon a stool in a clever little pile. I began to help myself, when who but my own dear mother should come in. The scene which followed is beyond my power to describe. The friendless and hungry boy, in his extremest need, found himself in the strong, protecting arms of his mother. I have before spoken of my mother’s dignified and impressive manner. I shall never forget the indescribable expression of her countenance when I told her that Aunt Katy had said she would starve the life out of me. There was deep and tender pity in her glance at me, and, at the same moment, a fiery indignation at Aunt Katy, and while she took the corn from me, and gave in its stead a large ginger-cake, she read Aunt Katy a lecture which was never forgotten. That night I learned as I had never learned before, that I was not only a child, but somebody’s child. I was grander upon my mother’s knee than a king upon his throne. But my triumph was short. I dropped off to sleep, and waked in the morning to find my mother gone and myself at the mercy again of the virago in my master’s kitchen, whose fiery wrath was my constant dread.

        My mother had walked twelve miles to see me, and had the same distance to travel over again before the morning sunrise. I do not remember ever seeing her again.

The Largest Plantation in Maryland

 IT was generally supposed that slavery in the State of Maryland existed in its mildest form, and that it was totally divested of those harsh and terrible peculiarities which characterized the slave system in the Southern and South-Western States of the American Union. The ground of this opinion was the contiguity of the free States, and the influence of their moral, religious, and humane sentiments. Public opinion was, indeed, a measurable restraint upon the cruelty and barbarity of masters, overseers, and slave-drivers, whenever and wherever it could reach them; but there were certain secluded and out-of-the-way places, even in the state of Maryland, fifty years ago, seldom visited by a single ray of healthy public sentiment, where slavery, wrapt in its own congenial darkness, could and did develop all its malign and shocking characteristics, where it could be indecent without shame, cruel without shuddering, and murderous without apprehension or fear of exposure or punishment. Just such a secluded, dark, and out-of-the-way place was the home plantation of Colonel Edward Lloyd, in Talbot county, eastern shore of Maryland.

The Big House

Tobacco Topping: Until he was about 10 years old tobacco along with corn and wheat was the staple crop on the Lloyd Plantation.

Tobacco Topping: Until he was about 10 years old tobacco along with corn and wheat was the staple crop on the Lloyd Plantation.

Old master’s house, a long brick building, plain but substantial, was centrally located, and was an independent establishment. Besides these houses there were barns, stables, store-houses, tobacco-houses, blacksmith shops, wheelwright shops, cooper shops; but above all there stood the grandest building my young eyes had ever beheld, called by every one on the plantation the great house. This was occupied by Col. Lloyd and his family. It was surrounded by numerous and variously-shaped out-buildings. There were kitchens, wash-houses, dairies, summer-houses, green-houses, hen-houses, turkey-houses, pigeon-houses, and arbors of many sizes and devices, all neatly painted or whitewashed, interspersed with grand old trees, ornamental and primitive, which afforded delightful shade in summer and imparted to the scene a high degree of stately beauty. The greathouse itself was a large white wooden building with wings on three sides of it. In front, extending the entire length of the building and supported by a long range of columns, was a broad portico, which gave to the Colonel’s home an air of great dignity and grandeur. It was a treat to my young and gradually opening mind to behold this elaborate exhibition of wealth, power and beauty.

        The carriage entrance to the house was by a large gate, more than a quarter of a mile distant. The intermediate space was a beautiful lawn, very neatly kept and tended. It was dotted thickly over with trees and flowers. The road or lane from the gate to the great house was richly paved with white pebbles from the beach and in its course formed a complete circle around the lawn. Outside this select enclosure were parks, as about the residences of the English nobility, where rabbits, deer, and other wild game might be seen peering and playing about, with “none to molest them or make them afraid.” 

Slave Food:

It was the boast of slaveholders that their slaves enjoyed more of the physical comforts of life than the peasantry of any country in the world. My experience contradicts this. The men and the women slaves on Col. Lloyd’s farm received as their monthly allowance of food, eight pounds of pickled pork, or its equivalent in fish. The pork was often tainted, and the fish were of the poorest quality. With their pork or fish, they had given them one bushel of Indian meal, unbolted, of which quite fifteen per cent. was more fit for pigs than for men. With this one pint of salt was given, and this was the entire monthly allowance of a full-grown slave, working constantly in the open field from morning till night every day in the month except Sunday. There is no kind of work which really requires a better supply of food to prevent physical exhaustion than the field work of a slave. …As a general rule the slaves did not come to their quarters to take their meals, but took their ash-cake (called thus because baked in the ashes) and piece of pork, or their salt herrings, where they were at work.

The Big House Luxuries:

 THE close-fisted stinginess that fed the poor slave on coarse corn-meal and tainted meat, that clothed him in crashy tow-linen and hurried him on to toil through the field in all weathers, with wind and rain beating through his tattered garments, and that scarcely gave even the young slave-mother time to nurse her infant in the fence-corner, wholly vanished on approaching the sacred precincts of the “Great House” itself. There the scriptural phrase descriptive of the wealthy found exact illustration. The highly-favored inmates of this mansion were literally arrayed in “purple and fine linen, and fared sumptuously every day.” The table of this house groaned under the blood-bought luxuries gathered with pains-taking care at home and abroad. Fields, forests, rivers, and seas were made tributary. Immense wealth and its lavish expenditures filled the Great House with all that could please the eye or tempt the taste. Fish, flesh, and fowl were here in profusion. Chickens of all breeds; ducks of all kinds, wild and tame, the common and the huge Muscovite; Guinea fowls, turkeys, geese and pea-fowls; all were fat and fattening for the destined vortex. Here the graceful swan, the mongrel, the black-necked wild goose, partridges, quails, pheasants, pigeons and choice waterfowl, with all their strange varieties, were caught in this huge net. Beef, veal, mutton, and venison, of the most select kinds and quality, rolled in bounteous profusion to this grand consumer. The teeming riches of the Chesapeake Bay, its rock perch, drums, crocus, trout, oysters, crabs, and terrapin were drawn hither to adorn the glittering table. The dairy, too, the finest then on the eastern shore of Maryland, supplied by cattle of the best English stock, imported for the express purpose, poured its rich donations of fragrant cheese, golden butter, and delicious cream to heighten the attractions of the gorgeous, unending round of feasting. Nor were the fruits of the earth overlooked. The fertile garden, many acres in size, constituting a separate establishment distinct from the common farm, with its scientific gardener direct from Scotland, a Mr. McDermott, and four men under his direction, was not behind, either in the abundance or in the delicacy of its contributions. The tender asparagus, the crispy celery, and the delicate cauliflower, egg plants, beets, lettuce, parsnips, peas, and French beans, early and late; radishes, cantaloupes, melons of all kinds; and the fruits of all climes and of every description, from the hardy apples of the north to the lemon and orange of the south, culminated at this point. Here were gathered figs, raisins, almonds, and grapes from Spain, wines and brandies from France, teas of various flavor from China, and rich, aromatic coffee from Java, all conspiring to swell the tide of high life, where pride and indolence lounged in magnificence and satiety.

Notes: Here Douglass refers to rockfish or striped bass, Black and red drum, Atlantic croaker, and sea trout or weakfish, Eastern oyster, blue crabs, and diamondback terrapin.

        Behind the tall-backed and elaborately wrought chairs stood the servants, fifteen in number, carefully selected. not only with a view to their capacity and adeptness, but with especial regard to their personal appearance, their graceful agility, and pleasing address. Some of these servants, armed with fans, wafted reviving breezes to the over-heated brows of the alabaster ladies, whilst otherswatched with eager eye and fawn-like step, anticipating and supplying wants before they were sufficiently formed to be announced by word or sign.

        These servants constituted a sort of black aristocracy. They resembled the field hands in nothing except their color, and in this they held the advantage of a velvet-like glossiness, rich and beautiful. The hair, too, showed the same advantage. The delicately-formed colored maid rustled in the scarcely-worn silk of her young mistress, while the servant men were equally well attired from the overflowing wardrobe of their young masters, so that in dress, as well as in form and feature, in manner and speech, in tastes and habits, the distance between these favored few and the sorrow and hunger-smitten multitudes of the quarter and the field was immense.

        In the stables and carriage-houses were to be found the same evidences of pride and luxurious extravagance. Here were three splendid coaches, soft within and lustrous without. Here, too, were gigs, phaetons, barouches, sulkeys, and sleighs. Here were saddles and harnesses, beautifully wrought and richly mounted. Not less than thirty-five horses of the best approved blood, both for speed and beauty, were kept only for pleasure. The care of these horses constituted the entire occupation of two men, one or the other of them being always in the stable to answer any call which might be made from the Great House. Over the way from the stable was a house built expressly for the hounds, a pack of twenty-five or thirty, the fare for which would have made glad the hearts of a dozen slaves. Horses and hounds, however, were not the only consumers of the slave’s toil. The hospitality practiced at the Lloyd’s would have astonished and charmed many a health-seeking divine or merchant from the north. Viewed from his table, and not from the field, Colonel Lloyd was, indeed, a model of generous hospitality. His house was literally a hotel for weeks, during the summer months. At these times, especially, the air was freighted with the rich fumes of baking, boiling, roasting, and broiling. It was something to me that I could share these odors with the winds, even if the meats themselves were under a more stringent monopoly. In master Daniel I had a friend at court, who would sometimes give me a cake, and who kept me well informed as to their guests and their entertainments. Viewed from Col. Lloyd’s table, who could have said that his slaves were not well clad and well cared for? Who would have said they did not glory in being the slaves of such a master? Who but a fanatic could have seen any cause for sympathy for either master or slave? Alas, this immense wealth, this gilded splendor, this profusion of luxury, this exemption from toil. this life of ease, this sea of plenty were not the pearly gates they seemed to a world of happiness and sweet content to be. The poor slave, on his hard pine plank, scantily covered with his thin blanket, slept more soundly than the feverish voluptuary who reclined upon his downy pillow. Food to the indolent is poison, not sustenance. Lurking beneath the rich and tempting viands were invisible spirits of evil, which filled the self-deluded gormandizer with aches and pains, passions uncontrollable, fierce tempers, dyspepsia, rheumatism, lumbago, and gout, and of these the Lloyds had a full share.

Notes:  18th and 19th century Maryland gardens included cabbage, potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, okra, tomatoes, squash, green corn, spinach, turnips and turnip greens, coleworts (collards), salsify, hot peppers, onions, and herbs sage, rosemary, mint, thyme, parsley and marjoram.  Douglass interestingly enough does not include many of the vegetables that would have been cultivated or eaten by enslaved people–like hot peppers, field peas, cymling squash and the like.  He instead focuses on those foods his white readers would have identified as of a higher “class.”  The orchard had apples, peaches and pears–all of which were made into various ciders and liquors, and the orangery or green house housed oranges, other citrus and pineapples.  Enslaved people supplemented their diet with hunting, fishing, and gathering–raccoon, opossum, rabbit, squirrel, hickory and walnuts, persimmons, blackberries, huckleberries and any number of catfish, perch or sunfish, wild shellfish or birds were critical additions to the table.  Guinea fowl-present on the plantation landscape were from West Africa.

Tobacco Field, Southern Maryland

Tobacco Field, Southern Maryland

Cymlings and Fish Peppers

Cymlings and Fish Peppers

 

Posted in African American Food History, Food and Slavery, Food People and Food Places, Food Philosophy at Afroculinaria, Scholars, Elders and Wise Folk, The Cooking Gene | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

OKRACAST: The Resurrection of the Fish Pepper | Southern Foodways Alliance

http://www.southernfoodways.org/okracast-the-resurrection-of-the-fish-pepper/

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Special thanks to the Southern Foodways Alliance by way of Tina Antolini for a great interview with myself, William Woys Weaver, Denzel Mitchell and Spike Gjerde on the fish pepper and bringing it back to life in the Chesapeake region. Chesapeake foodways are the oldest Southern cross-cultural cooking traditions,  starting with Jamestown.  I will soon be posting a piece on Frederick Douglass and the Great House Farm at Wye House plantation, to add some further context to this pepper. Its origins in slavery in the tobacco and grain plantations and ports of Maryland is key to the fish pepper’s story.  For now, enjoy this oral history by the wonderful Tina Antolini. 

Posted in African American Food History, Diaspora Food Culture, Food and Slavery, Food People and Food Places, Food Philosophy at Afroculinaria, Heirloom Gardening/Heritage Breeds and Wildcrafting, Pop Culture and Pop Food, Publications, Scholars, Elders and Wise Folk, The Cooking Gene | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Culinary Historian Michael Twitty On The Politics & Power Of Food » Arts & Life » OPB

http://www.opb.org/artsandlife/article/culinary-historian-michael-twitty-politics-power-food/

Posted in African American Food History, Diaspora Food Culture, Events and Appearances, Food and Slavery, Heirloom Gardening/Heritage Breeds and Wildcrafting, Pop Culture and Pop Food, Scholars, Elders and Wise Folk, The Cooking Gene | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

The Vanilla Ice Cream Story: The Guardian

http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2014/jul/04/black-people-vanilla-ice-cream-jim-crow-independence-day

My guest piece in the London Guardian out of the UK exploring the sordid past of ice cream as symbol of oppression in the minds and lives of African Americans in the Jim Crow South…and just beyond its borders. I want to be clear: I treat this as a piece of folk culture that has an absolute truth behind it rather than as the gospel truth. Some people can testify to this, others cannot, but all can speak to the insidious nature of one of the most un-American institutions in pre-Civil Rights era America. Take this July 4th to appreciate how far we have come and to reflect on how far we have to go.

Posted in African American Food History, Pop Culture and Pop Food, Publications, Scholars, Elders and Wise Folk, The Cooking Gene | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Southern Discomfort & “The Cooking Gene” | New Haven Independent

http://www.newhavenindependent.org/index.php/archives/entry/cooking_his_way_to_the_past/

A really fantastic write up of the talk I delivered on June 18 at Yale University for the International Festival of Arts and Ideas. I’m very proud to have participated in such a fantastic,  positive and necessary endeavor.  The festival is still going on through June 28, so if you are in New Haven, please check it out! There are so many plays, performances, dance sessions, music jams, concerts and sharing of ideas going on that it’s mind-boggling.

Posted in African American Food History, African Food Culture, Diaspora Food Culture, Events and Appearances, Food and Slavery, Food People and Food Places, Jewish Stuff, The Cooking Gene | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Barbecue vs. Cookouts: What Does Race Have to Do With the Terminology? – The Root

http://www.theroot.com/articles/culture/2014/06/barbecue_vs_cookouts_what_does_race_have_to_do_with_the_terminology.1.html

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This was a really quick interview I recently did with Janee Desmond-Harris (@jdesmondharris) of TheRoot.com; @TheRoot.   Her column Race Manners is fascinating and we had a lot of fun talking history, culture and community.
Black men cooked for barbecues at political rallies from colonial times to the eve of Civil Rights and beyond. My grandmother of blessed memory taught me about rubs and mops passed down from her father born in the 1880s. This is a big part of who we are and how we have made American foodways that much richer. Let it never be forgotten.

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Word to the wise: don’t over think this one; this was a humorous but truthful attempt to get at one of the folk hallmarks of our culture. I forgot to give a mutton shout out to Kentucky. Dang.

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Posted in African American Food History, African Food Culture, Diaspora Food Culture, Events and Appearances, Food and Slavery, Pop Culture and Pop Food, Publications, The Cooking Gene | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Tasting the past: Michael Twitty teaches history, equality and grace through food | Mountain Xpress

http://mountainx.com/uncategorized/tasting-the-past-michael-twitty-teaches-history-equality-and-grace-through-food/

A great write up on the dinner with Mike Moore and Elliott Moss from my friend Asheville food writer, Jonathan Ammons.

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Posted in African American Food History, Diaspora Food Culture, Events and Appearances, Food and Slavery, Food People and Food Places, Food Philosophy at Afroculinaria, Heirloom Gardening/Heritage Breeds and Wildcrafting, Scholars, Elders and Wise Folk, The Cooking Gene | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment